My sword came with a cleaning kit- though you can find many third party ones just as easily over the internet that will work. Choji oil is- choji oil.
The tang- exposed. It is supposed to look rusted. KEEP IT THAT WAY! That is how swords keep their value.
The tang with all the sword's fittings. I leave the blade collar on because it is more trouble than its worth to remove.
Since I am moving away to school I figured I would give my katana a once over because I will not be back home until late November. I was worried that if I disassembled my katana that I would break it and would not be able to get it back together again. I tried it and it was relativly simple- and I also got it back together (months ago).
I wanted to see the exposed tang- there is no signature on this sword because it is a reproduction from Long Quan Forge along their discontinued line of Bamboo Katanas. Bamboo is just the theme- theres nothing wooden about it (except the meguki pin). Assembling/disassembling the katana is a great way to change things around, such as ornamental fittings, tsukas (hand guards), etc.
I would love to have a smith make a shirasaya for this sword (wood fittings). In the sword world, all the ornamental fittings I have on it now are like a tuxedo for the sword- if I were to put the blade into a shirasaya fitting it is like putting the blade in pajamas,if you see my analogy. I will have to do a sword cleaning video as well before I leave to show my techniques for cleaning them. To be honest, they arn't much different than what is widely taught- although I should say that if your katana is stainless steel then it does not need choji oil- just a good wipedown with a moist towel. stainless steel is that- it is protected from oxidation- carbon steel (1045) is not- it needs choji oil.
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