Introduction
Suit Introduction
Inner frame
Paint
Head Sculpt
Chest
Lower Body
Arms
Legs
Wings
Buster Rifle
Shield
Conclusion
Introduction
Hello everybody, Rob here from Rob’s Gaming Network and Plamotaku to bring you a brief review of the master grade 1/100 Wing Gundam. I apologize for the quality of the video- I know this camera is a potato- I am saving up for a really nice digital video recorder to do various things with it. Anyways- this kit came out in 2011 and retails for 4000 japanese yen, at the current exchange rate, about $48 USD. Considering that cost, and the price of shipping, I paid about 4600 yen for the kit- which really isn’t that bad at all. This is one of my favorite gundam if not MY favorite- the series Gundam Wing got a lot of us into anime back when it aired on Toonami. As you can see, the model is not finished yet. He is about 90% the way there- I still need to finish the buster rifle and a few parts need a gloss coat.
Suit Introduction
Inner frame
Paint
Head Sculpt
Chest
Lower Body
Arms
Legs
Wings
Buster Rifle
Shield
Conclusion
Introduction
Hello everybody, Rob here from Rob’s Gaming Network and Plamotaku to bring you a brief review of the master grade 1/100 Wing Gundam. I apologize for the quality of the video- I know this camera is a potato- I am saving up for a really nice digital video recorder to do various things with it. Anyways- this kit came out in 2011 and retails for 4000 japanese yen, at the current exchange rate, about $48 USD. Considering that cost, and the price of shipping, I paid about 4600 yen for the kit- which really isn’t that bad at all. This is one of my favorite gundam if not MY favorite- the series Gundam Wing got a lot of us into anime back when it aired on Toonami. As you can see, the model is not finished yet. He is about 90% the way there- I still need to finish the buster rifle and a few parts need a gloss coat.
Suit Introduction
The Wing Gundam was the lead gundam in the first half of the series Gundam Wing until being replaced by the Wing Zero. This master grade has been a decade and a half in the making, and is an obvious improvement over the 90’s high grade kit, which is hideous out of the box. This master grade is certainly a welcome addition to the line.
The Wing Gundam was the lead gundam in the first half of the series Gundam Wing until being replaced by the Wing Zero. This master grade has been a decade and a half in the making, and is an obvious improvement over the 90’s high grade kit, which is hideous out of the box. This master grade is certainly a welcome addition to the line.
Inner frame section
The inner frame features fully articulate joint. Just like a human, the waist can bend left and right, the arms rotate 360 degrees around, the elbows bend, and of course the kit can pull off a voldo crawl. For a model kit, this level of articulation is unheard of in the static world- if I want to do a halo jump with this guy, I certainly can!
The inner frame features fully articulate joint. Just like a human, the waist can bend left and right, the arms rotate 360 degrees around, the elbows bend, and of course the kit can pull off a voldo crawl. For a model kit, this level of articulation is unheard of in the static world- if I want to do a halo jump with this guy, I certainly can!
Paint
This guy was painted with a variety of colors. I painted the inner frame a testors gunmetal. I also am going to paint the buster rifle, sans barrel, the same color. I also painted the shield and other misc parts a testors guard red which came out really nice. For the blue armor I used a Tamiya x-4 flat blue, which came out fantastic. For the barrel of the buster rifle, I will be painting that an aircraft interior black, also of the testors brand. The yellow is the only enamel paint on the kit and is an insignia yellow from testors for the V-fins and the wing covers. Finally, I used a testors white for the majority of the armor, and what a pain it was to apply it, let me tell you.
This guy was painted with a variety of colors. I painted the inner frame a testors gunmetal. I also am going to paint the buster rifle, sans barrel, the same color. I also painted the shield and other misc parts a testors guard red which came out really nice. For the blue armor I used a Tamiya x-4 flat blue, which came out fantastic. For the barrel of the buster rifle, I will be painting that an aircraft interior black, also of the testors brand. The yellow is the only enamel paint on the kit and is an insignia yellow from testors for the V-fins and the wing covers. Finally, I used a testors white for the majority of the armor, and what a pain it was to apply it, let me tell you.
Each part was individually painted after preparation, and
then gloss coated before being assembled using bamboo skewers. This kit took
45-50 hours to fully assemble, prep, sand, primer and paint over the course of
6 weeks, averaging out about an hour of work per day. The pace was slow- and I
was also slowed down because of an airbrush breakdown, which I did fix. At the
golden rate of $5.89 an hour, determined for what I would pay for for a similar
kit, with parts and labor, this kit is worth about $350 for non-insurance
purposes. Off the top of my head, I think the kit had about 350 parts.
Head Sculpt
Starting with the head, I am really impressed with the sculpt. It’s not too big or clumsy, but just right. It’s sleek and fits the overall form of the kit. One thing I love about master grades is that they have insane articulation at the neck joint, allowing you to do a bunch of insane poses.
Starting with the head, I am really impressed with the sculpt. It’s not too big or clumsy, but just right. It’s sleek and fits the overall form of the kit. One thing I love about master grades is that they have insane articulation at the neck joint, allowing you to do a bunch of insane poses.
Chest
The chest was fairly difficult to paint. Not because of the shape, but because of the lack of surface area on the part that holds in the jewel crest. The cockpit is not accurate to the anime, but I really am nitpicking with this as I have no qualms about historical accuracy- the thing looks just fine. I was also disappointed by the jewel sticker, which is placed underneath the lens. It looks fine from that angle there, but from below it is slightly distorted. Maybe I didn’t put it on right, but I centered that guy as much as I could. I’m also impressed with the separately molded machine guns- I havn’t built a master grade this recent since deathscythe hell, so I suppose it’s standard now-a-days. I also like the yellow vent covers, and the fact that there is a gray part beneath each vent, adding depth and detail. I had some trouble assembling the lower “upper” chest, if I can call it that, but I did eventually get the two to settle in. I had more trouble with the white one.
The chest was fairly difficult to paint. Not because of the shape, but because of the lack of surface area on the part that holds in the jewel crest. The cockpit is not accurate to the anime, but I really am nitpicking with this as I have no qualms about historical accuracy- the thing looks just fine. I was also disappointed by the jewel sticker, which is placed underneath the lens. It looks fine from that angle there, but from below it is slightly distorted. Maybe I didn’t put it on right, but I centered that guy as much as I could. I’m also impressed with the separately molded machine guns- I havn’t built a master grade this recent since deathscythe hell, so I suppose it’s standard now-a-days. I also like the yellow vent covers, and the fact that there is a gray part beneath each vent, adding depth and detail. I had some trouble assembling the lower “upper” chest, if I can call it that, but I did eventually get the two to settle in. I had more trouble with the white one.
Lower body
I was really impressed by the way the inner frame and exhausts poke out of the front skirts and the groin cover. For a model, the mold detail is superior and offers ample chance for lining, if that’s your thing. The front skirts can be finicky sometimes, but they stay on no problem. They are independent and can move up like this. The newer master grades have an action base connector in them, which is ¼” in diameter. I don’t purchase the action bases Bandai sells as a cost saving measure, so I build my own for about a quarter of the price. The only downside is the lower body must sit at a 90 degree angle upwards, but I can live with that until I design a more clever mechanism for posing. The side skirts lock in place a little too well, but other than that they stay put. For the transformation they will move up to hide some of the upper body when it is in bird mode. The rear skirt is one piece and will fold up if you need it to.
I was really impressed by the way the inner frame and exhausts poke out of the front skirts and the groin cover. For a model, the mold detail is superior and offers ample chance for lining, if that’s your thing. The front skirts can be finicky sometimes, but they stay on no problem. They are independent and can move up like this. The newer master grades have an action base connector in them, which is ¼” in diameter. I don’t purchase the action bases Bandai sells as a cost saving measure, so I build my own for about a quarter of the price. The only downside is the lower body must sit at a 90 degree angle upwards, but I can live with that until I design a more clever mechanism for posing. The side skirts lock in place a little too well, but other than that they stay put. For the transformation they will move up to hide some of the upper body when it is in bird mode. The rear skirt is one piece and will fold up if you need it to.
Arms
The arms I thought were well designed, but when I looked at the kit it seemed that they made him too skinny. Maybe I have some prejudice before I see the final product, but that’s what I see. You’ll get some good articulation- it will go all the way around on a 360. You’ll get a 135 degree bend here. The hands will rotate 360 degrees. For the bird mode transformation you have to remove the hands; they won’t slide up into the back of the arms like the high grade kit did. Not a big deal for me because I don’t plan on transforming into bird mode. You won’t be able to see it now, but the underlying white pieces fit around the shoulder to form a sort of vent that is molded in white. I think they could have molded a separate part to go on as a cap, then the vent cover, but they didn’t do this. It’s not a problem for me because I’ll just paint it, but for out of the box builders it’s another panel lining step.
The arms I thought were well designed, but when I looked at the kit it seemed that they made him too skinny. Maybe I have some prejudice before I see the final product, but that’s what I see. You’ll get some good articulation- it will go all the way around on a 360. You’ll get a 135 degree bend here. The hands will rotate 360 degrees. For the bird mode transformation you have to remove the hands; they won’t slide up into the back of the arms like the high grade kit did. Not a big deal for me because I don’t plan on transforming into bird mode. You won’t be able to see it now, but the underlying white pieces fit around the shoulder to form a sort of vent that is molded in white. I think they could have molded a separate part to go on as a cap, then the vent cover, but they didn’t do this. It’s not a problem for me because I’ll just paint it, but for out of the box builders it’s another panel lining step.
Woops- there goes the arm- in the front where the inner
frame is exposed- there are ugly nip marks. Those should have been hidden
better, and it isn’t a problem for someone like me to deal with them- but
again, think of the out of the box builders.
Legs
I love the legs for their contours and sharp angles despite having a complex mechanism for the bird mode transformation. I’m not a fan of the interior leg mechanism as it can cause some balance problems if not built correctly. It can also cause the legs to not line up perfectly symmetrical; so one leg will be higher than the other. It causes these two covers here and here to shape up a little uneven, but most of the time you can line them back into place. Down here- with this vent right here- it really likes to pop off at the worst times. You may want to consider gluing it into place, but it doesn’t bother me all that much. Just take a note of it. The thing I did not like about the mechanism is that down here there is a peg that extends through to the inner mechanism. Because of the bird mode transformation it can lodge in there and pull out slightly, despite the instructions telling you otherwise. This causes the balance issue, and you have to line the mechanism up correctly to prevent the sliding. With the armor parts on though, the problem is minimized.
I love the legs for their contours and sharp angles despite having a complex mechanism for the bird mode transformation. I’m not a fan of the interior leg mechanism as it can cause some balance problems if not built correctly. It can also cause the legs to not line up perfectly symmetrical; so one leg will be higher than the other. It causes these two covers here and here to shape up a little uneven, but most of the time you can line them back into place. Down here- with this vent right here- it really likes to pop off at the worst times. You may want to consider gluing it into place, but it doesn’t bother me all that much. Just take a note of it. The thing I did not like about the mechanism is that down here there is a peg that extends through to the inner mechanism. Because of the bird mode transformation it can lodge in there and pull out slightly, despite the instructions telling you otherwise. This causes the balance issue, and you have to line the mechanism up correctly to prevent the sliding. With the armor parts on though, the problem is minimized.
Wings
If the buster rifle and the chest don’t make the kit, well than the wings certainly do. You have a few different parts here- you have a vent cap, a vent cover which I will get into, a couple of side caps you throw on, a left and white wing piece. The inner frame of the wing is fairly complicated, and it will take some time to build it just right. You get fantastic articulation in the wings- you can move it up and out or compress them in a rested position. Something this awesome could only come from Japan. The problem with the vent cover is that when you look at it, you can see the white inner support piece up in there, even after painting. I’m choosing not to do anything about it out of laziness, and I can live with a lot of things because of the quality of this kit, even out of the box.
If the buster rifle and the chest don’t make the kit, well than the wings certainly do. You have a few different parts here- you have a vent cap, a vent cover which I will get into, a couple of side caps you throw on, a left and white wing piece. The inner frame of the wing is fairly complicated, and it will take some time to build it just right. You get fantastic articulation in the wings- you can move it up and out or compress them in a rested position. Something this awesome could only come from Japan. The problem with the vent cover is that when you look at it, you can see the white inner support piece up in there, even after painting. I’m choosing not to do anything about it out of laziness, and I can live with a lot of things because of the quality of this kit, even out of the box.
Buster Rifle
I’m happy with the buster rifle. I’m still in the process of painting it here, so it is going to look unfinished. Theres a bend and reload mechanism like a shotgun, and I absolutely love it, despite the fact that I may not use it. Well done, Bandai. These are individual canisters, and ala-rrobbert184, be careful when removing these or assembling them. No rrobbert, your words saved me from breaking my buster rifle J The one thing I do not like about this gun is that there is an ugly seam line where the two halves of the barrel frame meet. This can be rectified with some puddy, but again, think of the OOB builders. Theres another seam line back here, but I am going to leave it with the reasoning that that part is more likely to naturally have the seam line for ease of access when the Wing Gundam is being repaired. One can argue about my ugly seam line being that case, however it doesn’t look “natural” to me. I havn’t added the barrel yet because I will be painting it aircraft interior black. For the transformation, this handle will slide in and fit underneath the pile driver shield.
I’m happy with the buster rifle. I’m still in the process of painting it here, so it is going to look unfinished. Theres a bend and reload mechanism like a shotgun, and I absolutely love it, despite the fact that I may not use it. Well done, Bandai. These are individual canisters, and ala-rrobbert184, be careful when removing these or assembling them. No rrobbert, your words saved me from breaking my buster rifle J The one thing I do not like about this gun is that there is an ugly seam line where the two halves of the barrel frame meet. This can be rectified with some puddy, but again, think of the OOB builders. Theres another seam line back here, but I am going to leave it with the reasoning that that part is more likely to naturally have the seam line for ease of access when the Wing Gundam is being repaired. One can argue about my ugly seam line being that case, however it doesn’t look “natural” to me. I havn’t added the barrel yet because I will be painting it aircraft interior black. For the transformation, this handle will slide in and fit underneath the pile driver shield.
Shield
Despite the complexity of the assembly, this shield absolutely rocks the knee’s bees. Yes, the knee’s bees. It has a complete inner frame and some ingenious design work. You have one piece here, throw two side pieces on, a red cover and then the lower part of the shield. There is a gimmick where the shield will open to reveal a mechanism which hold’s Heero’s beam saber. This was fantastically done and can create some interesting poses. Well done, Bandai. I’ve had a few issues with the shield not properly attaching- but you need to put it into the back slot of the arm, then gently press down. It still gave me issues, but once you get it secure in a pose, it will stay put for you.
Despite the complexity of the assembly, this shield absolutely rocks the knee’s bees. Yes, the knee’s bees. It has a complete inner frame and some ingenious design work. You have one piece here, throw two side pieces on, a red cover and then the lower part of the shield. There is a gimmick where the shield will open to reveal a mechanism which hold’s Heero’s beam saber. This was fantastically done and can create some interesting poses. Well done, Bandai. I’ve had a few issues with the shield not properly attaching- but you need to put it into the back slot of the arm, then gently press down. It still gave me issues, but once you get it secure in a pose, it will stay put for you.
Conclusion
...stay tuned!
...stay tuned!
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